Glossary

A

Aperture

A small opening in the dial of a watch displaying indicators such as the day or date.

Asscher Cut

A square-cut diamond or gemstone with step-cut faceting, known for its brilliance.

Automatic Movement

A self-winding watch movement powered by the motion of the wearer’s wrist.

B

Baguette Cut

A rectangular, step-cut gemstone shape often used in side stones or accents.

Balance Wheel

A crucial component of a mechanical watch that oscillates to regulate timekeeping.

Barrel

A cylindrical container in which the mainspring of the watch is housed.

Bezel

The ring surrounding the watch dial, often used to hold the crystal in place or as a functional rotating component.

Bezel Setting

A metal rim that encircles a gemstone to hold it securely in place.

Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel

A bezel that can rotate both clockwise and counter-clockwise for calculations like speed or distance.

Breguet Hands and Numerals

A distinctive watch hand design featuring a ‘moon’ tip loop near the end and slanting serif Arabic numerals.

Brilliant Cut

A cutting style designed to maximize a gemstone’s sparkle, featuring numerous triangular facets.

C

Cabochon

A polished, dome-shaped gemstone often used to decorate watch crowns or lugs.

Caliber

The specific model or type of watch movement inside a timepiece.

Carat (ct)

The unit of weight used for gemstones, with one carat equaling 0.2 grams.

Case

The outer structure of a watch that holds and protects the movement.

Ceramic

A durable, scratch-resistant material often used in watch cases and bezels.

Chapter Ring

A ring on the dial that displays hour and minute markers.

Chronograph

A watch with a built-in stopwatch function.

Chronometer

A high-precision watch that meets COSC certification for accuracy.

Clarity

A measure of a gemstone’s internal flaws (inclusions) and surface imperfections (blemishes).

Cluster Setting

A jewelry design where multiple smaller stones are grouped to create a larger appearance.

Complication

Any function on a watch beyond timekeeping, such as a chronograph or moon phase.

COSC

The Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, certifying watches for precision.

Crown

The small knob on a watch used to set the time and date or wind the movement.

Cushion Cut

A gemstone shape with rounded corners and large facets, resembling a pillow.

D

Dauphine Hands

A popular hand design featuring wide, tapered hands with a central facet.

Deployant Clasp

A folding clasp that secures a watch strap or bracelet.

Dial

The face of the watch where time and complications are displayed.

Divers’ Watch

A watch designed for deep-sea diving, featuring high water resistance.

DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon)

A scratch-resistant coating applied to watch cases.

Dual Time Zone (GMT)

A watch that displays two time zones simultaneously.

E

Eternity Band

A ring featuring a continuous row of gemstones encircling the entire band.

Escapement

The mechanism in a mechanical watch that regulates timekeeping.

Exhibition Case Back

A transparent case back that reveals the movement inside the watch.

F

Facets

The flat, polished surfaces on a gemstone that enhance its brilliance.

Flinqué

A type of dial engraving that creates intricate patterns.

Flyback

A chronograph function that allows instant resetting and restarting.

G

Geneva Seal

A hallmark awarded to watches of the highest quality manufactured in Geneva.

GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)

A watch function that tracks a second time zone.

Guilloché

A decorative dial engraving technique that enhances texture and depth.

H

Halo Setting

A setting where smaller stones surround a central gemstone to enhance brilliance.

Hardness

A measure of a gemstone’s resistance to scratching, rated on the Mohs scale.

Helium Escape Valve

A feature in diving watches that allows trapped gases to escape.

Horology

The study and art of timekeeping and watchmaking.

L

Lariat Necklace

A long, open-ended necklace that can be looped or knotted.

Lobster Clasp

A secure, spring-loaded clasp used in necklaces and bracelets.

Lugs

The protruding parts of the watch case that attach to the strap or bracelet.

Luminescent

A material that emits light, used in watch hands and markers.

M

Mainspring

The coiled spring inside a mechanical watch that stores energy.

Manual Movement

A mechanical movement that requires winding by hand.

Marquise Cut

An elongated, pointed oval-shaped gemstone cut.

Micro-Pavé

A setting technique where tiny diamonds are set closely together.

Minute Repeater

A complication that chimes the time on demand.

Moon Phase

A complication that displays the current phase of the moon.

Mother of Pearl

An iridescent material used in watch dials.

Movement

The internal mechanism of a watch that powers its functions.

P

Pavé Setting

A setting style where small diamonds are placed closely together.

Pear Cut

A teardrop-shaped gemstone cut.

Perpetual Calendar

A watch complication that automatically adjusts for varying month lengths and leap years.

Platinum

A rare, durable metal used in fine jewelry and watches.

Power Reserve

The length of time a mechanical watch will run once fully wound.

Princess Cut

A square or rectangular gemstone cut with brilliant faceting.

Prong Setting

A setting where metal claws hold a gemstone in place.

Q

Quartz Movement

A battery-powered movement that uses a quartz crystal for accuracy.

R

Radiant Cut

A rectangular or square gemstone cut with a mix of brilliant and step-cut facets.

Rhodium Plating

A thin layer of rhodium applied to jewelry for enhanced shine.

Ring Size

The measurement of a ring’s inner circumference.

Round Brilliant Cut

The most popular diamond shape, featuring 58 facets.

S

Sapphire Crystal

A highly scratch-resistant watch glass.

Sautoir

A long necklace, often with tassels or decorative elements.

Screw-Down Crown

A crown that screws tightly into the case for water resistance.

Skeleton Dial

A watch dial designed to reveal the movement.

Solitaire

A jewelry setting featuring a single gemstone.

T

Tachymeter

A scale on a watch used to measure speed.

Tennis Bracelet

A flexible bracelet with a continuous line of diamonds.

Tourbillon

A high-end complication that counters the effects of gravity on a watch’s accuracy.

W

Water Resistance

A watch’s ability to withstand exposure to water, rated in meters.

White Gold

A gold alloy mixed with metals like palladium or nickel for a white appearance.

Yellow Gold

A classic gold alloy with a warm hue.