For many a serious jewellery collector, the title of this article is enough to take to their bed immediately. Why stop at one high jewellery suite when you have capacity for four? Or if a once-in-a-lifetime piece finds its way to the auction house, for that matter, are you expected to keep your paddle down and pretend you were unaware? However, for readers who find the above scenarios a prayer point rather than a reality, building a jewellery wardrobe requires precision of thought and careful deliberation. Pieces need to be undeniably well-crafted and beautiful, yet functional in multiple locations. Tricky to look after gemstones — soft opals I’m looking at you — lovely as they are, might not make the cut, and then there are the jewellery ‘rules’ (more of which later) that can be ignored or subverted.
Let’s start at the beginning. For those of us living in Africa, from newborn infant to grand old lady matriarch, ears without earrings are tantamount to nudity, so dressed they must be. Going beyond the bore-snore studs or mini hoops that are two-a-penny, one would be well to alight at Ferri Firenze where the Vito Mini-Me earrings are the kind of hardy perennial that work effortlessly. Yellow gold paired with diamonds is sculptural and distinct without fuss. Floral motifs never date, and are an essential part of the jewellery arsenal. With the Roberto Coin Venetian Princess earrings (be bold and go for the diamond and chrysoprase pair), you get a piece that sits elegantly between a sixteenth-century Renaissance contessa and a boss babe who never turns right on a commercial flight. For Owambes, weddings, and events where a sartorial shutdown is non-negotiable, jewellery must rise to the occasion, holding its own against lace, aso-oke, and gele, while also complementing an elegant evening gown. Enter stage left: Fope’s Flex’It earrings, a statement hoop like no other; textured, multi-functional and fabulous.
The neck. Pendant or a chain link? Do we follow the rules of never diamonds before six, or do we sparkle at breakfast and be damned? A clever modern subversion and solution to all the above is found in Messika’s So Move Pendants and Move It Necklaces. The movable diamond encased in its sleek lozenge-shaped setting resembles a link, and is perfect on top of a sweater or sitting deep on the torso after dark. And yes, morning meetings too. Speaking of rules, ‘girls in pearls’ shouldn’t just elicit images of debutantes and period dramas. Pearls are quietly gaining stylish momentum, and Yoko London is a maison that is part of the significant shift in perceptions while still creating timeless pieces. For a stealthy introduction to the treasures of the sea, their Trend Freshwater Pearl choker is a perfect day-to-evening addition. For those who don’t need convincing, a triple row pearl necklace is a classic, but becomes a raison d’être when it consists of white and yellow South Sea Pearls and Black Tahitian Pearls as Yoko London’s Ombre necklace does.
Finally, the hands. Beyond a timepiece, a thesis in and of itself, the wrists need attention. If you are partial to a stack, Chopard’s Happy Hearts incorporate another jewellery perennial motif — the heart — but make it an everyday, essential piece of luxury. They come in several hues, but one can’t go wrong with the monochromatic appeal of one bracelet in onyx and one in mother of pearl. For something a little dressier, Pomellato’s Sabbia Bracelet is a unique take on the diamond bracelet featuring white and brown diamonds and black rhodium-plated rose gold. Peaking underneath a kaftan on holidays, or a tailored suit, it exudes subtle, knowing glamour. Fingers are not just for proposals — the cocktail hour and with it the cocktail ring contain intoxicating talking points and ensemble enhancers. If you are looking for a coloured gemstone, Fred is a destination in and of itself. Founder Fred Samuels was known for his love of colour, and the 1936 Ring is a showstopper. Standout iterations include the 14.5 carat sugarloaf Tanzanite set in white gold and diamonds with sapphire accents and the 13.8 carat sugarloaf Rubelite set in rose gold and diamonds with pink sapphires. And for the Animalia lovers, Fred’s Ombre Feline Ring in Diamonds and Onyx is the kind of leopard one wouldn’t want to ever see change its spots.
To conclude, a capsule jewellery wardrobe is a necessity, an investment, and possible. Our jewels serve many purposes, accentuating our interiority, acting as our shimmering companion at different points of the day, working as protective talisman, and mirroring our essence. Then there’s the heirloom factor, a trait every piece referenced here possesses. And as any seasoned curator will attest, there is always space for further acquisitions.
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